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Topic:
OFA 9960 Sensitivity
This thread has 18 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Monday July 21, 2003 at 02:35
Jaidev Patel
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Is there a way to adjust the sensitivity for the OFA Kameleon 9960??
Mine even turns on when I walk into the room, close or open the room door, tried different surfaces.
Post 2 made on Monday July 21, 2003 at 09:44
jamesgammel
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I don't think the sensitivity is adjustable. The auto-activation mechanism can be disabled permanantly if it's that annoying. One thing you might try: Self-stick velcro can be obtained in varying widths. Choosing the "loop" half (instead of the stiffer "hook") in a width maximized for the width of the remote, in two or three pieces (so you can still open the battery cover) may give it enough of a shock-absorber effect to reduce sensitivity to vibration.

Jim
OP | Post 3 made on Monday July 21, 2003 at 18:31
Jaidev Patel
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How do I disable the Auto-Activation Mechanism?
Does that mean it won't turn on if I pick it up?, if so how do I turn the remote on?
Post 4 made on Monday July 21, 2003 at 20:57
jamesgammel
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On 07/21/03 18:31, Jaidev Patel said...
How do I disable the Auto-Activation Mechanism?

People have "complained" that they hear a rattling sound when they shake the remote. It's reported that that rattle sound is a little ball that moves in a "holder" hitting either end kicking in the circuit. You could remove the ball or the mechanism to disable it (at your own risk, of course).

Does that mean it won't turn on if I pick it up?,

that should be obvious

if so how do I turn the remote on?

doesn't it "turn on" if you "touch a 'button'"?

The remote obviously depends on being in a horizontal position for this feature to work. Have your tried something really stupid like propping it up on one SIDE so that the ball is resting down against one contact surface and gravity would likely keep it there? Yeah, once set down it will "lite" but after about 10 seconds it should "time-out" and go out. Picking it up nad putting it back in a flat, horizontal position should activate it.

I still find it quite remarkable that this thing is so sensitive that merely opening a door will activate it. I've seen what some "elephant" footed people can do--my son can walk in such a perverted way that everything in the house rattles, where no one else even elicits a shimmer. Weight doesn't seem to be a factor, it's the way he walks. It's said that a common dog walking across a bridge does more structural damage to the bridge than the sum total of all the cars that cross it in a day--it's the way dogs walk (something about vibraton and resonance).

Jim
OP | Post 5 made on Tuesday July 22, 2003 at 06:20
Jaidev Patel
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7
Hmm interesting, but I'd rather not remove the ball.
yes it is quite sensitive, and it is kept in a horizontal position.
Slightly tapping it will turn it on, tapping the surface its resting on will turn it on, walking up to it will turn it on. Obviously if resting on a surface like a bed or soft surface the surface will dampen the vibrations and remote wont turn on.

It's absurd that there is no sensitivity adjustment on a device using this type of technology, it's quite clear that there will be demand for such a feature. It's probably one of the first features I'd implement in designing such a device, just as important as being able to adjust the brightness, which can be done at 5 levels even!!

Post 6 made on Sunday August 10, 2003 at 19:03
gmcc
Long Time Member
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My RS model obviously does not depend on being horizontal for the auto-on feature to work. It can be propped up on one end, or either side (edge) and it will still trigger on with the slightest movement (walking across the room etc.)

I don't know how that feature works, but I'm pretty sure it's not a ball sort of device, unless it has 360 degree contacts and knows to turn off if nothing changes for 5 seconds or such. I suppose that's possible.
Post 7 made on Monday August 11, 2003 at 09:28
DBrown
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I've never seen or opened up a 9960. But I've seem the inside of quite a few other OFA remotes. In my opinion they are the epitomy of simplicity in how they work mechanically. Obviously it's the mechanical aspects of these remotes that would lead to the most failures. In most the only mechanical activity is the pressing of buttons to to short a contact pad. And from what I've read here and at other remote sites, button contact failure is the excuse most people use to get a new remote.

If you thought about how to make the absolutely simplest form of a motion detector, the Ball-in-a-socket idea is probably it. Imagine the ball only slightly smaller than a contact ring is sits inside. At rest, the ball would balance in a state of either touching the side or not touching. The circuit could simply wait for a status change, when a slight vibration would move the ball either away from the side or back into the side or both. Once triggered, the remote starts a timer. If re-triggered, the remote restarts the timer. Only if the remote's motion detector has NOT changed state for the timer's duration will it turn the backlight off. It would seem very difficult to put a variable "sensitivity" characteristic into such a simple mechanical motion detector. And a more sophisticated device would cost more, and might fail more often.

My Pronto's backlight makes more sense. It waits for a touch of the screen or a touch of the backlight button to turn the light on and start the timer. NO motion detector is required. But this strategy DOES irritate me a bit, since it mandates a "starting tap" before you can see the screen to use it.

If the sensitivity bothered me enough, I'd either remove the ball as suggested, get a new and different remote, or practice being more stealthy. See if you can learn to walk into the room without triggering the light.

As for dogs causing more structural damage than cars do... I heard that story, but with walking PEOPLE instead of dogs being the culprits. It relates to the impact of considerable force coming down on the bridge with each step we take, compared to NO impact as the car rolls across. Dogs may make some impact too, but the many I've known walked far stealthier than I, almost gliding across the floor.

DBrown
Post 8 made on Friday August 15, 2003 at 19:34
Ken R
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Hi,
I too was getting fed up with my Kameleon 8060 lighting up every time it was moved or there was a decent bit of bass from a film. On the circuit board of the Kameleon 8060 there was a small silver rectangular box containing 2 small ball bearings and a couple of electrical contacts . When the remote was moved the balls would touch each other and complete the circuit,lighting up the remote.I attacked the silver box with a pliers and removed the little balls- No more motion sensor. To get the remote to work I have to press a button to get it to light up,then press whatever button I wanted. Hardly a major hassle.
Hopefully now my batteries will last a little longer.
Hope this helps,
Ken
Post 9 made on Friday August 15, 2003 at 19:53
jamesgammel
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AHA, so the sensitivity is adjustable. Either too sensitive, or 0 sensitivity. I suppose a guy could also slip a non-conductor between the 2 balls and achieve the same thing? or maybe at an "end post"?

Jim
Post 10 made on Tuesday August 19, 2003 at 11:36
Mike Riley
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620
I've heard from OFA that they are looking into reconfiguring the Kameleon 8 9960/62 so that a user can adjust the back-light time. But as you've discovered, changing the sensitivity would require a lot more redesign than a simple ROM update.

Personally, I wanted to set the backlight so it stays on a little longer, but now that I've used the remote for a few weeks I'm not sure if I still need that option.

Using the strongest rechargeable NiMHs I can find helps me to offset the battery usage. And now that my "programming" is pretty much complete, I haven't had to replace the batteries for quite a while. On the down side, using rechargeable Alkalines seems to be almost pointless with this remote.

I like having auto-on. It saves that annoying extra tap that is required on the Pronto and a few other touch-screen remotes.
Post 11 made on Tuesday November 11, 2003 at 06:28
Shawn209
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November 2003
1
Sort of on the topic; I just received my 9960 yesterday and now want to solder in the connector for the JP1 cable. After removing the 2 screws in the battery bay, what magic places do I press to pop the case?
Post 12 made on Tuesday November 11, 2003 at 11:40
jamesgammel
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old credit card inserted along the edges, one "clip" at a time works wonders. Start near an end, work toward the other end, then go to the other side. As you get a "clip" to pop loose, just keep that loose one elevated and unclipped as you go. Keep the card "vertical", assuming the remote is flat horizontal as in being used. The clips need to move sideways first before they can pop "up".(toward center of the remote).

Jim
Post 13 made on Saturday November 15, 2003 at 17:43
gmcc
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15
On 08/15/03 19:53, jamesgammel said...
I suppose a guy could also slip a non-conductor between

Yes, but by far the easiest approach is to simply cut the conductor from the circuit board on the end of the box that has a wire coming out of it. This 'fix' could also be undone later with a little soldering. I did that to mine, but I've since stopped using it.


Post 14 made on Saturday January 24, 2004 at 18:08
doctrOSX
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November 2003
3
I used Jim's prop the remote to one side technique and it seems to be working much better. I did notice that the remote also seems to be sound sensitive. To get it to come on, just snap your fingers near it. Has anyone else noticed this? Im wondering if it is the sound vibrations that are causing it, Im tempted to take the berrings out just to see if this is the case. Is there anyone out there that has already modified the sensor that can try this?
Post 15 made on Sunday January 25, 2004 at 11:04
doctrOSX
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I clipped the sensor last night and tried to activate it with sound... It did not respond.
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